Here is a quick how to guide on getting an EZ Board shoved into your Ender 5 Plus.
Warning: This isn't fully supported by TH3D yet. Modify at your own risk.
Currently Tim hasn't added official support for the 5 Plus into Unified firmware. Myself and Oaklandish spent some time going back and forth on Discord working out the kinks.
I have attached the configuration.h and configuration_backend.h used for this.
- Obtain either a Creality LCD or a 12864 Full Graphic LCD
- Print the following file so you have a holder for the LCD. There is a version for both the Creality LCD and the 12864. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3842765
- Print the dual Z board holder file that TH3D provides with the EZ Board documentation
Installing The Board
- Disconnect the power cable and any USB connection from the machine. Remove any SD Card
- Flip machine over and remove the 6 screws from the bottom panel
- Disconnect the fan from the main board that is attached to the bottom panel
- Carefully remove all of the connections from the mainboard. Most of them are labeled but you may mix up the thermisters and fans when reconnecting everything. If you run into issues with the hot glue Creality uses on the connectors, carefully cut it with an exacto knife first.
- Once everything is disconnected, remove the 4 screws holding the Board into place and lift the board out.
- Remove the 4 screws holding the touch screen and remove the touch screen. Make sure you put the screw back that holds the ground wire. We don't want any grounding issues!
- Place new board in the control box and reattach with the 4 screws.
- Connect everything to the new board. except the BL Touch wiring. More on that below
NOTE: Don't be an idiot like me and connect the fan to the wrong port. Hot end fan gets connected to the screw terminals... Repeat Phasma.... Hot end fan gets connected to the screw terminals. The control board fan is connected to the plug above the part cooling fan.
- The hot end fan has a connector on it. This needs to be cut off and the wires stripped. Optionally you could add a dupont connector to make this easily removable.
- Connect the wires. Red to positive and Black to negative on the bottom left screw terminals of the EZ Board.
Now that we have that RTFM moment out of the way, back to your regularly scheduled EZBoard install.
If you are running the BL Touch that came with the machine, you will need to re-pin some wires in the connectors.
- The Z-Endstop wires need to be flipped. Black wire goes on the left side of the connector and white wire goes on the right.
- The servo connector you will need to flip the Blue wire and the Red wire. Order will be Blue, Red, Yellow
- I used a pick tool to carefully press the latch that holds the pins into the connector housings and gently pull on the wire while doing this to remove them.
- Make sure the pins are facing the correct direction when re-attaching them.
- Blue = Ground, Red = 5v, Yellow = Signal
- Connect the Z-endstop and the Servo connectors. Blue will go to the left side, yellow to the right when looking at the board.
If the servo wiring for the BL Touch is incorrect the LCD will not power on
Installing the LCD Screen
- Install the LCD into the mount you printed earlier.
- Secure the LCD mount to the frame of the printer.
- If installing a Creality LCD it is a direct swap. Just connect it to the LCD output on the EZ Board
- If you are using a 12864 LCD you will need the dual LCD cable board.
- Connect EXP 1 and EXP 2 to the LCD adapter board.
- Connect the adapter board to the EZ Board
At this point I recommend leaving the bottom cover off and flipping the machine over. Plug in the power cable and turn the machine on.
The LCD should come to life and the test firmware will display on the screen. Everything good there? Turn off the machine and move onto the firmware itself.
- Download the latest firmware release
- Add in the Configuration.h and Configuration_backend.h files that are attached
- Make any modifications needed.
- Compile the firmware
- Put the firmware.bin file onto an SD Card and flash the firmware using the documentation included with the board.
I may pre-compile firmware for an otherwise stock printer and add it as well. But for right now you will need to compile your own
Once the firmware is flashed you can verify you have everything connected correctly.
Set the temperature on the hot end to 100 degrees and make sure the hot end is the one reading the temperature changes. If it is not, then flip the thermister plugs on the board.
When you check the thermisters are correct, the hot end fan should kick on as well. If the part cooling fan kicks on instead, flip the fan connections.
After you have all of those connections verified you will want to make sure the BL touch is working correctly. This can be done by making sure the LEDs are on with the BL Touch itself. If it is then you can test it through the BL Touch menu.
Now that we have a verified working machine we can connect the fan on the bottom of the case and button the control box up.
Replace the bottom panel, put the machine on its feet and reconnect the power cable.
Last couple of steps. We are in the home stretch now!
You will need to double the Z step value from 400 to 800. This is done by issuing the following commands either from OctoPrint or something like Pronterface.
Time to enjoy some quiet printing. Enjoy!